There are various stories around the origin of Chikankari with the most authentic one being how it originated during the time of Queen Noor Jahan. Noor Jahan, the wife of Mughal emperor Jehangir, introduced Persian art in India in the 17th century. She herself was said to be a talented embroideress and had a particular fondness for this alluring art. Chikankari is the embroidery work done with the white cotton thread on fine white cotton material. Chikankari is also called shadow work. The word ‘Chikan’ is basically derived from the Persian word ‘Chikeen‘. In earlier days, the Chikankari embroidery is traditionally done on mulmul– fine muslin cotton.
The origin of Chikankari is initiated by the influence of intricate carving patterns of Mughal architecture during their period. As time progressed the impressions of flora fauna and architecture were used in the motifs (Chapa) for example Peacocks, Mango, grapevines, flowers leaf fruits etc, The Chikan work in Lucknow is older than 200 years and later it is patronized by Nawabs. Chikankari was originally white on white embroidery which eventually transformed into various other forms.